Hanaougi Bettei Iiyama Review: A Traditional Ryokan in Hida Takayama that Slows You Down
- Ava Lyn
- 14 hours ago
- 7 min read
Hanaougi Bettei Iiyama
262-2 Honobumachi
Takayama, Gifu 506-0003
Japan
Set in a quieter residential pocket on the outskirts of Takayama, Hanaougi Bettei Iiyama feels intentionally removed from the rhythm of the tourist old town. The walk from Takayama's main district is longer than most visitors might expect, but it reveals a slower, more local side of the city, and one that many tourists may never see. For those who prefer convenience, the ryokan offers a well organised shuttle service to and from Takayama Station as well as the Miyagawa Morning Market through the day. We opted to walk on our first day and was glad we did. I have been to Takayama several times and this is the first time I have actually ventured out of the very famous Edo period Takayama old town. As we move out of Takayama old town down the river, we start to walk through Honobumachi, it is much more residential, with beautiful 2 storey houses and neatly kept flowers. It is very everyday Japan, with vending machines on corners, elementary school kids walking home set in a beautiful hilly landscape. Hanaougi Bettei Iiyama itself is in the Hida Takayama Onsen area and is set slightly away from the densest part of town, so the immediate surroundings feel quieter and more spaced out than the central grid.
While not tied to a global hotel loyalty programme, like most ryokans and onsens in Japan, this independence also showcases its charm. The experience here is rooted firmly in traditional Japanese hospitality rather than brand standardisation. The building itself leans into classic ryokan design, understated and warm, with a focus on natural materials. Views from the property are serene, think neighbourhood rooftops, distant hills and the calm of a residential district. This location is the best for travellers seeking a calm retreat.
What defines the stay here is the attentiveness. With only 15 guest rooms, as compared to the 48 guest rooms in its sister property, Hidatei Hanaougi across the road, it is extremely intimate from the moment you arrive. Each guest is assigned to a dedicated server and this becomes the anchor of the entire stay. As we arrive, our server, whom we get introduced to as Kaede later on, welcomes us with a full on deep bow Japanese style. We are slightly thrown off as we did not expect to get bowed to. However, we later learn that the deep bow is a physical expression of omotenashi and signals that the staff are placing themselves "below" the guest in a ceremonial style, offering respect and sincere care wholeheartedly without expecting anything in return.
We are next brought to a little tea area and offered some traditional sweets and an iced matcha as Kaede helps us through our check in. She guides us through every detail, confirming shuttle timings, meal schedules and ensuring everything ran seamlessly. This continuity of service is something larger hotels rarely replicate. Kaede is always there to help but never intrusive and this creates a rhythm to the stay that feels both structured and deeply personal.
There is also flexibility in how much of the property you choose to use. Guests also have access to additional facilities at the larger sister hotel across the road. Compared to Hidatei Hanaougi, where we stayed on the second night (and will also share our review of), Bettei Iiyama itself encourages a more inward experience. It is the kind of place where you naturally slow down rather than seek activity.
We stayed at Room 301, which has its own private onsen. Out of the 15 guest rooms, 7 of these rooms have its own private open air hot spring baths in different designs. If you choose a guest room without a private open air hot spring bath, there is also a communal bath available for us. We never ended up using the communal bath but did take a wander around and it looked private and clean.
During the day, the ~ 350 sqft room functions as a living area and by evening, it is converted into a sleeping space with futons laid out on tatami mats. This daily transition is part of the cultural experience. If sleeping on futons is not something you do not want, there are also some rooms that offer western styled beds. The room itself is extremely generously sized and thoughtfully segmented. Beyond the main living area, there is a separate TV and massage room, a feature that quickly becomes addictive. Combined with the outdoor private onsen, we found ourselves cycling between the onsen and massage chair throughout our stay. Having the ability to step into your own bath at any time, especially in the cool Takayama air, is a luxury that is difficult to overstate.
The detail of service extends into the smallest details. After casually mentioning that we were celebrating our wedding anniversary, Kaede surprised us at dinner with a handwritten note and a hand crafted hashi or chopsticks. Hashis as a gift is very symbolic in Japanese culture, as it represents the couple themselves, and wishes on unity, harmony, health and a long happy life together. The word hashi also carries a "bridge" meaning to continued happiness. Another example of thoughtful service here.
Meals at Bettei Iiyama follow the traditional kaiseki format, served with precision and care. Dinner and breakfast are both included and form a central part of the stay. There are private dining rooms to enjoy your meals and the quality of the food is consistently high as one would expect in Japan. While not every dish was unforgettable, the overall experience was deeply satisfying, with a strong emphasis on regional produce and produce in season. The preparation styles and flavours may be new to many international travellers and it is definitely less about spectacle and more about authenticity. Menus change frequently and our menu was:
Chrysanthemum Greens and Maitake Mushrooms Dressed in Sesame Sauce, Leaf Shaped Carrot
Sesame Tofu Topped with Grilled Eggplant, Grated Wasabi
Simmered Tender Octopus
Nishiki Tamago, Squash Castella Cake, Simmered Sweetfish with Roe in Sansho Sauce, Shrimp, Simmered Sweet Potato, Simmered Burdock with Cinnamon
Dobin Mushi with Sea Eel and Matsutake Mushroom, Shrimp, Yuba, Misuba Herb and Sudachi Citrus
Pressed Conger Eel Sushi
Sea Bream, Grass Shrimp, Tuna, Amberjack Sashimi
Deep Fried and Boiled Tofu Dumpling, Yuba, Wheat Gluten
Grilled Sablefish with Miso and Yuan Sauce and Ginger
Hida Beef Steak
Cha Soba, Herring, Green onion
Steamed Japanese Taro with Kudzu Starch Sauce
Rice, Miso Soup, Japanese Pickles
Dessert
Another highlight we had was a selection of sake and beers around the Hida region on offer. We had the opportunity to try Hida sake which was a namasake, an unpasteurised variety that is rarely found outside Japan. It carries a fresher, more vibrant profile compared to a standard sake and because it is unpasteurised, means more care is required to ensure transport at the correct temperature. The region is also home to the award winning Hida Brewery, about a 20 minute drive away, known for its balanced beers with subtle hop character and light cherry notes. Both absolutely delightful.
Breakfast continues in the same vein, structured, varied and rooted in local tradition. It is not a quick meal, but meant to be a deliberate start to the day. We arrive in our yukatas, which is now becoming our standard attire around the ryokan. To be honest, the 2 meals is plenty for us to function through the day. Despite the quantity being quite significant, we did not find ourselves feeling bloated. Perhaps the Japanese style Kaisekis are mostly low fat, umami driven, with a great mix of vegetables and seafood and it certainly helps that every dish comes in small portions.
Trade Offs and Who this is For
Staying in a ryokan like Bettei Iiyama comes with clear trade offs. This is not a modern luxury hotel and it does not try to be there. There are fewer plug and play conveniences, no sprawling facilities, no constant entertainment and no immediate access to the city centre. Dining times are fixed and the structured nature of the experience requires a degree of planning and commitment. However, these trade offs are also what makes the stay meaningful. By stepping away from conventional hotel expectations, you gain an immersive understanding of Japanese hospitality and lifestyle. We also appreciated Kaede very much, for being there for us through the stay and for guiding us through our first real authentic ryokan experience with so much thought and sincerity.
Hanaougi Bettei Iiyama is best suited for:
Couples seeking a quiet, intimate retreat, particularly for special occasions
Travellers interested in cultural immersion over convenience
Travellers who appreciate thoughtful service and slower travel
Travellers who value privacy, especially with in room onsen facilities
It is less ideal for families with young children, travellers on tight schedules or those prioritising nightful and central access.
At 99,700 JPY (~800 SGD) per night for 2 people including tax, Hanaougi Bettei Iiyama sits at the premium end of the spectrum for what it offers, especially in popular seasons. The rate includes a room at ~ 350 sqft, with a private open air onsen, trnasfers to and from takayama station and the old town, as well as both breakfast and dinner in a full kaiseki format. You are not just paying for an accomodation, you are paying for a bundled Japanese cultural immersion. For travellers planning to spend a significant amount of their time on property and lean fully into the ryokan experience, the value feels justified.
Would We Recommend?
Absolutely Yes! Hanaougi Bettei Iiyama is not about excess and there are certainly larger and more luxurious ryokans in Takayama. However, if you want a ryokan that best captures the spirit of omotenashi and slow travel, Hanaougi Bettei Iiyama would be our pick. Every part of the experience, from room layout to the pacing of meals, to the interaction with one server through the stay, encourages you to slow down and engage with a different rhythm of travel. It is not a cheap stay by any means, but it delivers something increasingly rare, a deeply personal, culturally grounded experiences that stays with you long after check out. If approached with the right expectations, offers a perspective on Japan that few conventional hotels can provide.
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