Wana Yook Bangkok Review: A Serious Michelin Take on Kao Gaeng
Wana Yook
5, 15 Phaya Thai Rd,
Thanon Phaya Thai,
Ratchathewi, Bangkok 10400,
Thailand
Wana Yook Bangkok Review: Wana Yook is ranked at #47 of the Asia's 50 Best Restaurants and holds one Michelin Star in 2026. Chef Chalee Kader has built a meal around Kao Gaeng - rice served with curries and other dishes, giving that familiar format enough structure, ingredients and technical care to justify its tasting menu.
Why We Came
Bangkok is a city with never-ending food choices and it is always difficult for us to decide on what to have during our visit. Our stays always feel a little too short for us to explore both street foods as well as fine dining restaurants. We chose Wana Yook because of Chef Kader's decision to incorporate what Thai people see as comfort food into an elevated experience and we were curious whether it would work for us.
Kao Gaeng is not an obscure regional specialty waiting to be discovered. It is everyday food: flexible, affordable, filling and built around contrast. At a typical shop, you choose what looks good, point at what you want, receive your plate of rice and enjoy your hearty meal. Wana Yook preserves the logic of that meal but changes the conditions around it. Better sourcing, beautiful presentation and mindful preparation. I should also point out the location and setting of this restaurant. The restaurant sits in a beautiful century old colonial residence on Phaya Thai Road. It is not immediately obvious from the street and we were a little confused as to why Google maps was bringing us into what seemed like a building. Once inside though, the house revealed itself, a beautiful 2 storey space set back from the noise and traffic and away from the weather elements. That contrast works in Wana Yook's favour. Bangkok outside is fast and chaotic whilst the dinner inside is deliberately paced and well controlled.
Getting There
The team was excellent long before we even arrived. They communicated clearly over WhatsApp about dining requests, food restrictions and allergies and even accommodated our request for an earlier than expected arrival on the day. The team also gave practical transport advice, avoiding Grab at peak hour and recommending that we take public transport. We ignored the advice initially and tried to book a Grab from CentralWorld. It was repeatedly cancelled or the wait times were unreasonable because of traffic. We eventually switched to the BTS, which was easy and the train literally stopped right outside the restaurant. This may sound like a minor point, but it was important for us in the context of hospitality. Fine dining restaurants often focus on the polished part of service after you enter the room, and it takes a customer forward restaurant to understand a guest's experience begins way before that, particularly in a city like Bangkok where getting across town can often be the hardest part of the evening.
The experience normally begins at the bar which was unfortunately full when we arrived, so we received our welcome drink at our table, a sweet, sour and refreshing cocktail. Soon after, the team brought us to the kitchen area for the first two bites. This was a great format. Starting beside the kitchen gave us some insight into the dinner we were to expect and get to understand the vibe in the kitchen as well as meet Chef Kader.
Our Menu For the Night:
Kin Len
Gui Chai
Kao Soy
Kung Chae Naam Pla
Fried Gourami
Daily Relish
Soft Shell Crab, Krill, Steamed Greens, Mackerel Braised in Coconut
Wana Yook Renditions
Winter Melon, Northern Chicken Soup, Pork Rind, Banana Chili Relish
Toh Mae Curry, Coconut Rice, Morel Hor Mok, Grilled Shima Aji
Pakmoh Crab Dumplings, Coconut, Pineapple
Kao Gaeng
Ka-Nom
For the Kao Gaeng, the selection was large and we were asked to select 3 of the same for the entire table. There were 4 different sections to choose from as well as a 5th section which was Wana Yook's weekly cut of beef which was market price. If 3 dishes were not enough, it is also possible to add on more dishes at 250 baht per person. Though I must say, by the time we got to the Kao Gaeng, we were already rather full.
Curries and Soups
Gaeng Tai Pla (Catch of the day)
Gaeng Panang - Panang Curry of Braised Beef Shanks
Stir Fries
Pud Nam Moo - Wok Stir Fry Fermented Pork and Squid
Pud Buab Liam - Crab, Egg and Ridge Gourd Stir Fry
Fried
Kah Kob Tord Kratiam - Fried Frog Legs with Garlic and Pepper
Kung Tord Pud Kapi Sator - Fried Prawn with Butter Beans in Shrimp Paste, Kaffir Lime and Chili
Thai Salad
Yum Gai Yang - Grilled Chicken with Seasonal Fruits
Yum Praram Dern Dong - Pork Jowl Salad with Lime and Chilli
There were 2 options of wine pairing, one called the explorer's selection which was 3900 baht for 6 glasses at 90 mL pours, There were interesting mixes of Thai Sake as well as more adventurous grapes like Cinsault as well as Chenin Blanc. There was also the more expensive Prestige Selection at 8900 baht for 6 glasses at 90 mL pours. We went with the Prestige Selection this time which was a very delightful match of the very spice forward, intense menu. We are often a little hesistant with wine pairings on such strong flavours because the wrong pairing often leads to a overly bitter after taste, and an unpleasant sharpness on the tongue. But the sommelier at Wana Yook did a phenomenal job with letting the dishes at Wana Yook shine.
Champagne P. Paillard Extra Brut Bouzy Grand Cru Les Parcelles XIX, France Champagne
Weingut Knoll Gruner Veltliner Vinotheken 2022, Austria, Wachau
Kaze No Mori Alpha #1 Nama Junmai, Japan, Nara
Chateau de Pommard Clos Marey Monge Nicolas Joseph 2017, France, Burgundy
Donnhoff Dellchen Riesling Trocken GG 2022, Germany, Nahe
Le Salette Pergole Vece Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2015, Italy, Veneto
The P. Paillard remained in our memories long after the meal was done. It was made from grapes drawn from parcels within Bouzy Grand Cru, fermented and matured in oak barrels. Super rich, still fresh with plenty of brioche and a gorgeous long chalky finish. A bottle that we would definitely keep at home.
At the kitchen, the Khao Soi tartlet was excellent. It did not try to replicate a bowl of Khao Soi in miniature , but focused on the fragrance, richness and crispness that makes you crave another. The second starter was a reworked chive pancake, a street side snack that we really enjoy. We were then offered a kitchen tour and showed the pickles and preserved ingredients on the wall along with the many accolades the restaurant has already received.
The early savouries were consistently strong. We particularly liked the chicken soup with pork-skin crackling and the toh mae curry. There was a nice sense of balance between comfort, engaging flavours and plenty of textures. It helps that the dinnerware was gorgeous and gave us plenty to talk about. The chicken soup in particular was warm and familiar in profile, while the pork crackling gave it a needed savoury crunch. The Toh Mae curry had more depth and heat but it remained balance.
The staff checked throughout the dinner whether the spice level was comfortable and whether we wanted adjustments. This was well handled. The questions were direct but not fussy, and the team did not make spice tolerance feel like a test of authenticity.
By the time we got to the main Kao Gaeng course, we were already almost full. On our plate, we chose panang curry, pud nam moo and yum gai yang. The panang curry was well executed, rich and familiar. The pud nam moo of fermented pork and squid cooked in the wok was the most memorable dish out of the three for us. It had the savoury depth and slight funk that made it feel like it belonged to the world of kao gaeng, rather than to a generic fine-dining menu. It was direct, powerful and not overly polished. The dishes came with several supporting elements, which I might argue is now the centrepiece of Wana Yook's Kao Gaeng dish, including 2 yolks, a duck and a chicken egg yolk marinated in their home made sauces served with deep fried egg white. Between the 2, the duck yolk was a standout. It added richness but it also made a point to the course. Kao Gaeng is meant to be mixed, adjusted and eaten in different combinations and dare I say the best bites came when the curry, rice and yolk were combined together.
Rice was treated seriously throughout. Five varieties from northern Thailand, including the Chiang Mai region, were served with the various courses through the night. I appreciated that the portions were little and sufficient just for you to understand the difference in texture and flavour.
Now on to desserts, we had a selection of Ka Noms or Thai sweets. These are all sweets that can be found in the markets of Bangkok, but elevated and playful. We enjoyed assembling our own Ka Nom as did we enjoy the various petits fours that reminded us of why Bangkok is a culinary destination. Our evening ended as delightfully as it started.
Who is Wana Yook For:
Wana Yook is for diners who already enjoy Thai Food and want to see a familiar format interpreted with real care. It is a strong choice for visitors who want one polished Bangkok meal that remains clearly tied to the city's food culture. Definitely come hungry, take public transport and choose the wine pairing if you are willing to spend more. At 190 SGD (before taxes and service), Wana Yook may be the most expensive Kao Gaeng you may ever eat, but it is great value for the quality of the food served here.
Final Verdict
We would return. Wana Yook is thoughtful, assured and exceptionally well run, although the meal's generosity occasionally becomes exhausting. Trimming the portion sizes or allowing a half serve of Kao Gaeng, would allow the Kao Gaeng to command the appetite and attention it deserves for smaller eaters. What makes Wana Yook compelling is that it takes Kao gaeng seriously without suggesting that everyday food needs rescuing. Its best dishes retain the directness, abundance and layered flavours that make Thai food so rewarding.
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